A Tribute to Michel Rolland, Looking Back on a 2020 Interview

It came as a shock to learn that Michel Rolland passed away on March 20 from a sudden heart attack. It's a bit sad.

His standing in the wine world is nothing short of legendary. He served as a consultant for over 200 wineries around the globe—some of them prestigious estates and cult producers—from Bordeaux to Napa, from Italy to China. He helped shape an entire era of winemaking.

Back in 2020, when I was still with my former employer, I had the opportunity to co-host an online interview with my good friend and wine writer Chantal Chi—an interview that brought together Chantal Chi and Michel Rolland. It was one of those rare occasions when Rolland shared his insights so fully with Chinese audiences.

Nearly six years have passed. Looking back at the footage now, it still brings back memories.

Chi has known Rolland since 2004, their friendship started at a wine event in Napa Valley. During the interview, she described him as a straightforward person—direct, no beating around the bush. She felt that for anyone who had followed his work through past interviews or documentaries, this conversation offered a different perspective. "So many great wines exist in the world today," she said, "and Michel Rolland is one of the people we have to thank for that."

In that interview, Rolland touched on several topics that mattered to the industry and to wine lovers alike. Below are the key points he made, quoted as faithfully as possible.

On the winemaker's influence on wine quality

Rolland believes that while a winemaker does have some influence on a wine's character, the decisive factor is always terroir.

He illustrated this with an example: a winemaker can certainly aim to make better Napa wines in Napa Valley, or better Pomerols in Pomerol. But trying to make a Pomerol in Napa Valley? Impossible. The winemaker doesn't hold all the keys. Personal style can influence the wine, but what ultimately defines it is the natural environment of the vineyard.

To describe the relationship between winemakers and vineyards, he offered a vivid analogy: different wine regions are like different cars—Ferrari, Porsche, BMW—each with its own performance characteristics. What you do is learn how each one handles, and adjust as you go to make it run faster and farther.

On the influence of oak barrels, concrete eggs, and amphorae

Rolland noted that 30-plus years ago, the quality of oak barrels was inconsistent, and that could indeed affect wine quality. Today, barrel quality has improved significantly, and winemakers know how to choose the right barrel with the right level of toast. Once you have a good barrel, the next step is to take good care of the wine. There's no doubt, he said, that if a wine is good enough to go into oak barrels, the result will be better than if it stayed in concrete.

As for concrete eggs and amphorae, he gave an example: if a winery has five concrete eggs and ten amphorae, that might represent 10% of its total production—already a fairly high ratio. For the vast majority of wineries, the proportion is negligible, and so is their overall impact on the wine. In his view, these vessels are more about creating talking points—stories to share with consumers.

On natural wine, organic, and biodynamics

Rolland posed a question: what exactly is natural wine? Is it wine made without sulfur dioxide? Without SO₂, wine will oxidize and spoil. What's the point of making wine that's not good?

He believes that using SO₂ carefully makes sense, but rejecting it outright is unwise. To him, wine should be enjoyable—something that gives pleasure. If it's not good, whether it's "natural" or not, it shouldn't be made in the first place. If a natural wine is 11.5% alcohol, with high acidity, green notes, bubbles, and an oxidized smell, you might as well just drink beer.

Regarding organic and biodynamic practices, Rolland said he isn't opposed to them, but they're not easy to implement, and they don't work everywhere. Take Bordeaux, for instance—he's from there, so he knows how complex the weather can be. In China, aside from a few regions that don't get much rain, most areas aren't well-suited either.

He added that protecting the planet is everyone's responsibility. But he found it ironic that in a place like Bordeaux—where the damp, cool growing season often makes spraying unavoidable—some organic producers spray Bordeaux mixture seven times to fight mildew. That means heavy trucks enter the vineyard seven times, compacting the soil and damaging its structure, all while burning diesel and polluting the air. The sprays also contain copper, a heavy metal that's harmful to both people and the environment. In some cases, he argued, these organic methods can be more polluting than conventional ones—yet no one wants to talk about that when they hear the word "organic."

On China and Marselan

Rolland pointed out that focusing on grape varieties doesn't hold much meaning in itself. China is vast, and the real potential lies in exploring its sub-regions—bringing out what makes each one unique. Winemaking near Beijing, for example, is different from winemaking in Ningxia. Is there any single variety that could represent all of China? Not that he knows of. But in certain regions, you find good Syrah in Ningxia, and good Cabernet Sauvignon in other parts of the country.

He believes China should focus more on regions than on varieties. Using an example, he said that while Argentina has had great success with Malbec, that doesn't mean Chile—its neighbor—should necessarily follow suit. If Marselan were pushed as China's signature variety, the result could be a rush to plant it everywhere, even in places where it's not suited.

Wine, he said, takes time and experience to get right. In Bordeaux, they have a joke: when it comes to winemaking, the first hundred years are the hardest. Yes—it's only through accumulated experience that people truly come to understand a piece of land.

I never had the chance to meet Mr. Rolland in person. Now, it seems, I'll have to say goodbye from afar.

May he rest in peace. His vision and influence will live on—in every glass of fine wine.